(714) 240-2800

Home / Termite Treatment Methods

Termite Treatment Methods

There's no single best termite treatment — the right choice depends on what species you have, how widespread the infestation is, and your specific situation. This guide covers every method we use so you can arrive at an inspection knowing your options, ask the right questions, and understand the recommendation you'll receive.

Start Here: Drywood or Subterranean?

The two termite species found in Southern California homes require fundamentally different treatment approaches. Using the wrong treatment means spending money on something that won't touch your actual infestation. It happens more often than you'd think.

Drywood Termites

Live entirely within the wood — no soil contact required. They infest framing, furniture, window frames, and eaves. You'll often find small piles of pellets (frass) near the infestation.

Treatment targets the wood. Either the whole structure at once (fumigation) or the specific pieces affected (orange oil, heat, spot treatment, microwave, electro-gun).

Subterranean Termites

Live in underground colonies and travel up through mud tubes to feed on wood. You'll see mud tubes along your foundation or exterior walls — sometimes as narrow as a pencil.

Treatment targets the soil. A Termidor liquid barrier in the soil around your foundation is the standard approach — it eliminates the colony through a transfer effect.

Quick read: mud tubes on your foundation → subterranean. Frass pellets near wood → drywood. Not sure? A free inspection will confirm the species before any treatment is recommended.

Four Questions That Point to the Right Treatment

1. How widespread is the infestation?

If you're seeing frass or damage in multiple areas — different rooms, multiple walls, the attic — a localized treatment won't cover it. Fumigation treats the entire structure at once, which is usually more cost-effective than treating multiple areas individually.

2. Do you need to stay in your home during treatment?

Tent fumigation requires 2–4 days away from the property. Heat treatment typically means one day out. Orange oil, spot treatment, microwave, and electro-gun allow you to remain at home. Some infestations need a combination — fumigation for the widespread areas plus targeted follow-up. Your inspector will spell out the recommendation based on what they actually find.

3. Do you have concerns about chemicals?

Orange oil uses d-limonene, a natural citrus extract. Heat and microwave use no chemicals at all. Electro-gun uses electricity. If chemical exposure is a concern — for medical reasons, young children, or personal preference — tell your inspector and we'll prioritize non-chemical options where the infestation allows.

4. What's your timeline?

Real estate closing in 10 days? Heat treatment finishes in a day. Orange oil completes in a day. Spot treatment can often be done this week. Fumigation needs 2–4 days of scheduling plus prep time. Timeline constraints don't change what your infestation needs — but they do affect which options we lead with.

Treatment Method Comparison

TreatmentBest ForDrywoodSubterraneanTimeCost RangeVacate?Warranty
Tent FumigationWidespread drywood2–4 days$1,500–$4,000Yes (2–4 days)2 years
Orange OilLocalized drywood1 day$500–$1,500No1 year
Heat TreatmentChemical-free option4–8 hrs$1,200–$3,500Day only1 year
Spot TreatmentSmall infestations2–4 hrs$300–$800No1 year
Liquid Barrier (Termidor)Subterranean1–2 days$800–$2,500No1 year
BorateNew construction / prevention1–2 days$900–$1,900NoLife of wood
MicrowaveHigh-value millwork / localized2–4 hrs$500–$1,200No1 year
Electro-GunAntiques / accessible spot2–4 hrsQuote on inspection — varies by item valueNo1 year

✓ = effective  ✗ = not applicable  — = partial / preventive only. Cost ranges reflect typical Southern California pricing. Your quote depends on structure size, infestation severity, and access conditions.

How We Recommend a Treatment

When we inspect a home, we're not selecting from this menu based on which treatment costs the most or which is fastest to schedule. We pick the treatment that actually fits your specific infestation — species, location, severity, your living situation, and your timeline. Sometimes that's tent fumigation. Sometimes it's a $500 spot treatment. We tell you what we'd do if it were our home, and we put it in writing on the inspection report.

Every Treatment Method, Explained

Tent Fumigation

Most thorough for drywood

$1,500–$4,000

Vikane gas penetrates every void, wall cavity, and wood member in the structure simultaneously. The most reliable method when infestation is widespread or located in areas you can't see or access.

Best for: Widespread drywood termites throughout the home, multi-story homes, inaccessible attic or wall infestations.

Skip when: Subterranean termites — gas doesn't treat soil colonies.

Vacate: 2–4 days

Full details →

Orange Oil

No tent, stay home

$500–$1,500

XT-2000 Orange Oil (d-limonene) is injected directly into termite galleries. Kills on contact, no tent, no chemical residue. You stay in your home the entire day.

Best for: Localized drywood infestations in accessible areas. Homeowners who can't vacate for fumigation.

Skip when: Widespread or inaccessible infestations — orange oil only reaches galleries we can drill to.

Vacate: None

Full details →

Heat Treatment

100% chemical-free

$1,200–$3,500

Propane heaters raise infested areas to 120–140°F — above the thermal death point for all termite life stages including eggs. No chemicals, no residue, same-day re-entry in most cases.

Best for: Chemically sensitive homeowners, localized drywood infestations, historic properties with delicate finishes.

Skip when: Subterranean termites in soil; heat-sensitive items must be removed before treatment.

Vacate: Day of treatment only

Full details →

Spot Treatment

Most affordable entry point

$300–$800

Pesticide injected directly into confirmed termite galleries through small drilled holes. Best when infestation is small, accessible, and caught early.

Best for: Small localized infestations, follow-up treatment after other methods, tight budgets.

Skip when: Widespread infestations or inaccessible areas — spot treatment only covers what we can drill to.

Vacate: None

Full details →

Liquid Barrier (Termidor)

Only option for subterranean

$800–$2,500

Termidor (fipronil) applied as a continuous treated zone in the soil around your foundation. Subterranean termites contact or ingest it and transfer it colony-wide — eliminating the colony, not just individuals.

Best for: Active subterranean termite infestations, mud tube activity at the foundation, high-risk soil conditions.

Skip when: Drywood termites — they don't travel through soil and won't contact a soil treatment.

Vacate: None

Full details →

Borate Treatment

Best for new construction

$900–$1,900

BoraCare penetrates into bare wood and stays there. Applied before drywall, it gives decades of protection at a fraction of the cost of remedial treatment.

Best for: New construction and remodels, sub-floor and attic framing, post-fumigation preventive barrier.

Skip when: Existing infestations in sealed or painted wood — borates require bare wood to penetrate.

Vacate: None

Full details →

Microwave

No drilling, no chemicals

$500–$1,200

Electromagnetic energy heats infested wood sections from the surface to lethal temperature — no drilling, no chemicals.

Best for: High-value millwork, localized accessible infestations, chemically sensitive environments.

Skip when: Widespread or deeply embedded infestations.

Vacate: None

Full details →

Electro-Gun

For antiques and millwork

Quote on inspection

High-frequency electrical current directed into termite galleries kills on contact — no chemicals, no drilling in most cases. Used when protecting the workpiece matters as much as eliminating the infestation.

Best for: Antiques, high-value furniture and millwork, accessible spot infestations, chemical-free requirements.

Skip when: Widespread infestations or deeply embedded gallery networks.

Vacate: None

Full details →

Common Scenarios

“Frass in multiple rooms — I can see it everywhere.”

Widespread drywood infestation. Fumigation is almost always the right call — it treats every piece of wood in the structure at once, which ends up being more cost-effective than treating four or five areas individually and hoping you found them all.

“One window frame — I caught it early.”

Small, localized drywood infestation. Spot treatment or orange oil is usually the right fit — targeted, affordable, and done in a day. No tent, no food prep, no time away from home.

“Mud tubes running up my foundation wall.”

Active subterranean termites. Termidor liquid barrier applied around the foundation is the standard treatment — it uses the termites' own movement patterns against them. Note that fumigation eliminates everything inside the structure but doesn't prevent new colonies from arriving — that's why annual inspections matter, especially if you're in a high-activity area.

“We're remodeling — studs and subfloor are exposed.”

This is the ideal window for borate treatment. Bare wood absorbs BoraCare fully, giving it decades of residual protection against termites, beetles, and wood decay. Once drywall goes up, that opportunity is gone.

For real estate transactions

If you're in escrow and need treatment + Section 1 clearance fast, the process is different from a standard residential job — different timeline, different documentation requirements, and a $295 flat inspection fee. See our real estate inspection guide.

Common Questions About Termite Treatment

How do I know which treatment I need?

The starting point is always species. Drywood termites (confirmed by frass pellets near wood, or by inspection) call for fumigation if the infestation is widespread, or a localized method — orange oil, heat, spot treatment, microwave, or electro-gun — if it's contained. Subterranean termites (mud tubes at the foundation) almost always call for a Termidor liquid barrier in the soil. From there, the four questions higher on this page narrow it down: how widespread is it, can you vacate, any chemical concerns, what's your timeline. When in doubt, a free inspection gives you a written recommendation with no obligation to proceed.

Can I do a one-time treatment and be done with termites for good?

No treatment prevents future infestations indefinitely. Fumigation eliminates every termite inside the structure on treatment day but leaves no residual — a new colony can move in months or years later. Termidor liquid barrier has a 10+ year residual in the soil, which gives long-term protection against the same subterranean colony and new ones trying to cross the treated zone. Borate applied to bare wood during construction or remodel makes that wood inhospitable to termites for decades — but it has to be applied before drywall and paint go up. The honest answer: annual inspections are the only real long-term protection mechanism. They catch new infestations before they become expensive. Most of our clients combine a one-time treatment with an annual inspection for the ongoing coverage.

How long can termites stay in my wood if I don't treat them?

Indefinitely, and the damage compounds. Drywood termite colonies grow slowly — a new colony takes 3–5 years to produce its first swarmers — but an established colony can occupy your framing, eaves, and furniture for decades without visible structural failure, right up until it isn't. Subterranean termites are faster; a mature colony can consume a linear foot of wood per day. In Southern California, we regularly inspect homes where an untreated infestation has caused $20,000–$50,000 in structural damage. Treatment at early detection is almost always a fraction of repair cost later.

What if termites are in places we can't reach for spot treatment?

Inaccessibility is exactly when fumigation or heat treatment earns its cost. Tent fumigation with Vikane gas reaches every void, wall cavity, attic joist, and piece of furniture in the structure simultaneously — it doesn't need physical access to galleries. Heat treatment raises an entire room or zone to lethal temperature, killing termites in wall voids and framing without drilling. If an inspector determines the infestation is too distributed or deep for localized treatment, fumigation is typically the recommendation — not because it's the most profitable option, but because spot-treating inaccessible areas gives you a false sense of resolution while the colonies survive.

Do you guarantee termites won't come back?

We warranty the treatment, not the property's future. Here's the distinction: a fumigation warranty covers re-treatment if live termites are found during a re-inspection within the warranty period — typically 2 years. It doesn't mean termites can't re-enter from outside. Orange oil and spot treatment carry 1-year warranties on treated areas. Termidor's warranty covers the treated soil zone, typically 1 year with annual renewal options that reflect its long residual. No treatment permanently seals a home against new termite colonies — termites swarm, fly, and establish from outside every spring and fall. Annual inspections are how you catch re-infestation early, before damage accumulates.

What's the difference between treatment and prevention?

Treatment eliminates an active infestation. Prevention is about reducing the conditions that attract termites and catching new colonies before they establish. Preventive measures: eliminate wood-to-soil contact around the foundation, fix moisture problems (subterranean termites are drawn to damp wood), remove wood debris from the perimeter, keep attic and crawl space ventilation adequate. On the treatment side, borate applied to bare wood during construction or remodel is the closest thing to a built-in preventive — it makes the wood itself inhospitable to termites for decades. But for a home that's already built, annual inspections are how you catch new colonies before they become real damage. Catching a new colony at year one costs a few hundred dollars. Catching it at year five may cost tens of thousands.

Are termite treatments safe for pets and children?

Depends on the method. Fumigation requires removing all people, pets, and plants — re-entry is only authorized after a licensed inspector tests clearance levels, at which point it's safe. Orange oil, heat, microwave, and electro-gun present minimal chemical exposure risk; no evacuation is required. Termidor is applied to soil around the exterior foundation with very low indoor exposure risk. Spot treatment involves pesticide injection into wood — standard precautions apply but no evacuation is required. If you have specific medical sensitivities or concerns, mention them when scheduling and we'll prioritize non-chemical options where the infestation allows.

What if I see termites again after treatment?

Call us. If live termites appear within your warranty period in a treated area, we'll inspect and re-treat at no charge. If the activity is in a new area, or the warranty period has passed, we'll inspect to determine whether it's a new infestation, a colony that wasn't fully eliminated, or something else. Warranty work and new infestations are different things: a new colony entering from outside isn't a treatment failure, but it is something we'll diagnose clearly and quote before doing anything. Don't wait — termite damage accumulates, and what's a spot treatment job today can become a fumigation job in two years.

Not Sure Which Treatment Fits Your Situation?

Free inspection — no obligation. A licensed inspector will assess your infestation, identify the species, and give you a written recommendation. CA License #PR7791. 10% senior and military discount available.